![]() ![]() You'll understand the concept better towards the end when I attach the screen to the wall. In my Magic Mirror it is the screen that supports the frame, not the other way around. In my build, I've reversed this situation - making my Mirror much lighter, cheaper and easier. Invariably they have a wooden bar across the back to hold the screen in place. Most builds seem to use a heavy wooden frame to support the substantial weight of the screen. In constructing my Mirror I did something I haven't seen elsewhere. Unfortunately these brands may not be available outside North America. Mirroview - this one seems to be designed specifically for computer screen scenarios.That said, from my research I came to the conclusion that two mirrors from Pilkington are probably the best available: I scoured the internet looking for the definition of the "best ratio of reflectivity/transparency." Most sources say 70% reflective, 30% transparent is ideal. Acrylic is good because it's very light, but from experience, I think it's better for smaller mirrors only. Personally, I used 3mm acrylic and although it looks great, I'd prefer to replace it with glass that eliminates distortion. See here for discussions about acquiring in different places. It can be difficult to get in many countries. The glass/acrylic for the mirror is about the hardest component to get right. Drill (for attaching VESA mount to wall). ![]() You'll probably want it flush to keep the screen as close as possible to the wall. ![]()
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